my invisible text
Categories
  • TIMELINE

Temperature advice on oracal black with air release

<<

User avatar

3 Star Contributor

Posts: 205

Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:05 pm





Post Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:31 pm

Temperature advice on oracal black with air release

Post heating stretched areas. Temperature advice, to reset memory, on oracal black with air release. Please advice in C° (Celsius)
Thx.

Jan
<<

User avatar

5 Star Contributor

Posts: 14363

Joined: Tue Sep 21, 2004 2:36 pm





Post Thu Aug 26, 2010 8:16 pm

Jan
Which series of oracle is air release? I recently used the 970, but although it has an option of ar, it is not yet stocked in the UK apparently

Peter
<<

User avatar

3 Star Contributor

Posts: 205

Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:05 pm





Post Thu Aug 26, 2010 8:57 pm

Hi Peter, im not in the shop now and i cant remember, but i think its the 970 series. Ill check tomorrow. Thx.
Jan
<<

User avatar

5 Star Contributor

Posts: 14363

Joined: Tue Sep 21, 2004 2:36 pm





Post Thu Aug 26, 2010 10:49 pm

if it is 970, I dont think there is reccomended temp, it is a car wrap and is not designed for recesses, but like most vinyls the heat needs to be a minimum, rather than an excact figure, go for 90c and you should be ok, no guarantees though

Peter
<<

User avatar

3 Star Contributor

Posts: 205

Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:05 pm





Post Fri Aug 27, 2010 2:35 pm

Thx, Peter. Thats what i did. 90 C° but it dosent smell good, tho' ;o)

Jan
<<

User avatar

5 Star Contributor

Posts: 11424

Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2004 12:22 pm





Post Sat Aug 28, 2010 12:42 pm

From Oracal Australia site: Hope it helps

Oracal 970ra - Any deep-drawn areas, borders and edges should be carefully reheated with a hot-air gun after coating in order to quickly activate the adhesive substance. It is recommended to briefly reheat the film in deep corrugations to a temperature of ca 120°C. In this way the vinyl becomes a stable structure.

This temperature will not damage the adhesive substance and the car’s paintwork.

Specialized shops offer infrared thermometers which allow exact measuring of the underground temperature. Move hot-air gun constantly to avoid damage to the film.

Finally the film should be pressed into the corrugations again.

When the re-assembling is finished, reheat all borders, edges and corrugations again with a hot-air gun to 150°C.

Remaining tiny air bubbles under the film will diffuse through the film within a few days depending on the ambient temperature.

Only larger bubbles should be slightly punctured by a pin or pointed scalpel and the air should be squeezed out using a squeegee.
<<

User avatar

3 Star Contributor

Posts: 205

Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:05 pm





Post Sat Aug 28, 2010 1:52 pm

Nice post Shane, 120 C° is HOT!, im using a laser and 90° is achievable with a heatgun, but 120 sounds way to much...?

Does anybody else have a comment on this?
<<

User avatar

5 Star Contributor

Posts: 11424

Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2004 12:22 pm





Post Sat Aug 28, 2010 2:28 pm

Jan, 120 deg is fine. I've use it at that temp many times.

Just let it cool before you touch it as it goes rather soft. I use a 3M wheel to push it down though, so there is no chance of it being creased.

The final 150 deg is a bit scary, if you have any small bubbles they will burn, so make sure it OK before you do the final heat run.
<<

User avatar

3 Star Contributor

Posts: 205

Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:05 pm





Post Sat Aug 28, 2010 2:30 pm

What type is your heatgun, Shane ???
<<

User avatar

5 Star Contributor

Posts: 11424

Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2004 12:22 pm





Post Sat Aug 28, 2010 9:15 pm

bosch - goes to 200 deg I think
<<

User avatar

3 Star Contributor

Posts: 205

Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:05 pm





Post Sun Aug 29, 2010 5:53 pm

rite, tried heating 180 °C today. Worked ok.
BUT what if the surface (bumber ) is painted plastic ?

Jan
<<

User avatar

5 Star Contributor

Posts: 11424

Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2004 12:22 pm





Post Mon Aug 30, 2010 1:37 pm

I doubt it would damage it Jan, Don't let the heat concentrate on one area too long, but I'd be surprised if it did damage anyway. The heat process to make a plastic bumper is much higher than the temps we use with our heat guns.
<<

User avatar

3 Star Contributor

Posts: 234

Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2007 2:39 pm





Post Mon Aug 30, 2010 2:39 pm

Hi All,

Shanes post is spot on although i always shy away from recommending rapid air for deep recesses , ill have a look at the Austrailian web site though , its for this reason we only keep the normal repositionable adhesive version but can get the rapid air from Germany quickly enough if needed.

Regards
<<

User avatar

5 Star Contributor

Posts: 11424

Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2004 12:22 pm





Post Tue Aug 31, 2010 8:35 am

True Cameron, I'd advise against ra for deep areas too and its a point worth repeating, but I've used it with 'normal' areas and recesses reasonably well.

Return to Vehicle Wrapping



 

About
Contact
Board Rules
Membership
Terms & Conditions

 

Signapp - iPhone & iPad
Signapp - Android
Vehicle Wrap Training
Vinyl Application Training
Vehicle Wrap Accreditation
UK Sign Group
Site Membership
Advertising
Videos
British Signs & Graphics Assoc.

 

Facebook
Twitter
Youtube
Linkedin
Instagram
Pinterent

 

Who is Online

In total there are 60 users online ::
8 registered, 0 hidden and 52 guests
[based on past 5 minutes]

Most users ever online was
370 on Tue Aug 28, 2018 5:02 pm

Registered users:
Chris Montgomery, Chris Windebank, DavidRogers, Emyr Evans, John Thomson, Robert Lambie

Copyright © 2000 - 2019 Robert Lambie