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Canvas Printing tips, advice?

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Neil Speirs

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Post Fri Nov 30, 2007 4:11 pm

Canvas Printing tips, advice?

Is this something anyone does on uksignboards?

I currently do photo mugs, t-shirts, jigsaws, engraving etc and think the canvas prints would fit well with my range of products.

Main problem is I don't know how they are produced:oops:

Is it sublimation printing or just direct printing onto canvas using a large format printer?

Any info much appreciated :D
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Chris Wool

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Post Fri Nov 30, 2007 4:16 pm

we can answer this time

or just direct printing onto canvas using a large format printer? thats it

like every thing printer wise it has its problems, once sorted of you go

chris
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Steve Underhill

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Post Fri Nov 30, 2007 4:35 pm

You can now get canvas you can sublimate onto, xpres do it not sure who else.
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Neil Speirs

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Post Fri Nov 30, 2007 5:38 pm

Steve Underhill wrote:You can now get canvas you can sublimate onto, xpres do it not sure who else.


Have you tried them yourself Steve?
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Steve Underhill

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Post Fri Nov 30, 2007 6:08 pm

No mate not as yet,
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David_Evans

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Post Fri Nov 30, 2007 6:59 pm

I tried the sublimation canvas from the transfer press about a year ago. Works pretty well but obviously your limited for size.

Dave
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Steve Underhill

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Post Fri Nov 30, 2007 8:12 pm

Yea, A3 is as big as I can go, cant really tile dye sub either as the colours dont overlap and blend in.
Epson 4880 is A2 and can take 2 sets of ink tanks now so can be used for both, intersting but if there isnt 2 sets of heads I cant see it working out any other way than clogged.
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Neil Speirs

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Post Fri Nov 30, 2007 8:37 pm

Taken from epson's site

"Eight-Channel MicroPiezo® AMC™ Print Head with Ink Repelling Coating Technology
Print head design capable of handling eight separate ink channels
One-inch wide high-performance print head with 180 nozzles per channel
New ink repelling coating to dramatically reduce nozzle clogging"


Seems a nice machine but then creates the problem of requiring a nice 2k+ heat press :-?
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Jason Xuereb

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Post Sat Dec 01, 2007 9:02 am

Roland SP 540V printing onto Fredrix Canvas stretched over custom made stretcher bars and laminated with UV liquid laminate. Works a treat.

I finish the back of the frame with framers tape, d-rings and screws. I also use corner wedges to give a drum tight finish to the frame and allow the customer to keep it tight over the years.

If you would like pics I'll post some.
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Neil Speirs

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Post Thu Dec 20, 2007 5:15 pm

Sorry Jason, missed your reply :-?

Would really be interested in seeing those pics :D

cheers Neil
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M Brown

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Post Sat Dec 22, 2007 6:45 pm

We use pigment inks with our canvas from Fredrix. We don't need to lacquer our prints. Prints are water proof, fade resistant and scratch proof as the ink goes deep into the weave of the cotton canvas. We use Epson printers with ultrachrome inks, prints fantastic plus vibrant.

Canvas is printed directly onto with the printer.

We only lacquer prints if the customer wants a gloss or a satin finish. Lacquer is hand brushed on.

From Mark.

PS: Merry Christmas to all you signs makers out there.....
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Jason Xuereb

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Post Mon Dec 24, 2007 8:48 am

Hey neil,

Here is the back of the frame.

Corner wedges (perfect drum like finish and customer can adjust over the years of the canvas sags), frames tape, d-rings with screws (so customer can adjust height on wall themselves, bumpons (velcro not to scratch the wall).
Attachments
canvasfinish.jpg
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Robert Lambie

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Post Tue Dec 25, 2007 1:57 pm

thanks for the picture jason, ive made my own frames and also print via our grenadier with solvent inks onto grafityps canvas. but our frames are very basic and not much thought into them. thanks for the tips mate. :wink:
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Steve Vallis

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Post Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:53 am

Canvas

I do loads of these, I use a Canon ipf9000 Buy canvas from Supplyline.

its a bit more expensive than most but is very good quality with few faults.
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Post Tue Jan 01, 2008 1:57 am

Jason Xuereb wrote:Hey neil,

Here is the back of the frame.

Corner wedges (perfect drum like finish and customer can adjust over the years of the canvas sags), frames tape, d-rings with screws (so customer can adjust height on wall themselves, bumpons (velcro not to scratch the wall).



Just wondered how long you expect the print to last jason?
oils on real canvas may well need a stretch after a few years, but print on synthetic? hardly likely, most of the media is stable as far as "sagging" goes, but the ink will fade long before the media needs adjusting will it not?

we are not talking fine art here, so it needs to be put into perspective.

Peter
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Dave Bruce

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Post Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:17 pm

May be the frame shrinks Peter.

Dave
Happy New Year to all
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Steve Vallis

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Post Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:28 pm

Peter Normington wrote:
Jason Xuereb wrote:Hey neil,

Here is the back of the frame.

Corner wedges (perfect drum like finish and customer can adjust over the years of the canvas sags), frames tape, d-rings with screws (so customer can adjust height on wall themselves, bumpons (velcro not to scratch the wall).



Just wondered how long you expect the print to last jason?
oils on real canvas may well need a stretch after a few years, but print on synthetic? hardly likely, most of the media is stable as far as "sagging" goes, but the ink will fade long before the media needs adjusting will it not?

we are not talking fine art here, so it needs to be put into perspective.

Peter



Temperature differences caused by central heating can cause canvas to sag.

Its very usefull to be able to tap the wedges and remove the sag!
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Post Tue Jan 01, 2008 1:42 pm

I'm no expert on canvas, but the traditional stuff was woven, and needed to be stretched and sized (as in surface prepared) to ensure it did not sag, the sizing process actually shrunk the canvas onto the frame.
and this was done before applying oils to the surface not after.
I just wondered if, with modern synthetic canvases, which are not woven, but have an embossed simulated canvas texture they need to be stretched onto a frame?

I would have thought that because they are quite stable, stretching is not really necessary, apart from just enough to keep the media flat. Over tightening the media may indeed stretch it over time, so the need to re-tension is caused by stretching it in the first place, if you see what I mean.

So does anyone have any specs from the relevant manufacturers that say the media should be stretched and if so by how much?

I have done a few "canvas" prints, none that are over 12 months old yet, but the "canvas" has not sagged any, and initially only hand tensioned over a frame, and stapled into place.
Admittedly a nice frame with tensioning may look good and to some extent add value, but I am curious if tensioning is really necasary or not?

Peter
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Steve Vallis

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Post Tue Jan 01, 2008 5:03 pm

Peter Normington wrote:I'm no expert on canvas, but the traditional stuff was woven, and needed to be stretched and sized (as in surface prepared) to ensure it did not sag, the sizing process actually shrunk the canvas onto the frame.
and this was done before applying oils to the surface not after.
I just wondered if, with modern synthetic canvases, which are not woven, but have an embossed simulated canvas texture they need to be stretched onto a frame?

I would have thought that because they are quite stable, stretching is not really necessary, apart from just enough to keep the media flat. Over tightening the media may indeed stretch it over time, so the need to re-tension is caused by stretching it in the first place, if you see what I mean.

So does anyone have any specs from the relevant manufacturers that say the media should be stretched and if so by how much?

I have done a few "canvas" prints, none that are over 12 months old yet, but the "canvas" has not sagged any, and initially only hand tensioned over a frame, and stapled into place.
Admittedly a nice frame with tensioning may look good and to some extent add value, but I am curious if tensioning is really necasary or not?

Peter



I supply a few portrait studios. All prefer to have real stretchers and wedges. If the canvas sag its easy to just tap the wedges, otherwise its a complete redo.
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Jason Xuereb

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Post Wed Jan 02, 2008 1:36 am

Hey Peter,

Even during the framing process the wedges help you achieve a perfect drum like finish easier. Its good to be able to tap the frame out a little bit to make it tighter.
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Derek Heron

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Post Wed Jan 02, 2008 1:12 pm

i have done a few canvas prints
with a very basic wooden frame 28mm x 18mm mitered and then stapled.
the canvas i staple to the frame then cover with tape.
i did the first ones over a year ago and no problems as yet.
printed with ecosol max inks on to vinyl logistics cotton canvas. bought in 750mm wide .i have done up to 22"x16" with no problems
but i would like a more professional finish like Jason's as i am in the process of setting up a stall for craft fairs etc.
and all the ones i have seen have the wedges etc although mine are OK
i think i need to go down this route,
does any body know of a supplier for the frame system with wedges ideally i would like to buy in lengths until i find the sizes that sell best and then buy in bulk
will post a couple of pics in the members portfolio of samples i have for display

Derek
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Gary Birch

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Post Wed Jan 02, 2008 1:24 pm

I have just bought some from these people

http://www.stretcherbars-uk.com/index.php

Quality seems ok.

Price and delivery too.

Cheers

Gary
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Derek Heron

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Post Thu Jan 03, 2008 12:28 pm

Cheers Gary
excellent link just spoke to them and ordered some up
derek

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